Only veal kidneys have a special finesse. There are, as far as I know (Ali Bab’s stuffed and braised fantasy apart), only three ways to prepare them. Whole, a thin layer of their fat is left surrounding them and they are cooked in a covered casserole either over low heat or in a medium oven, turned regularly, for from 40 to 45 minutes. To be grilled or sautéed, their fat and the thin protective membrane should be first removed; they are then split lengthwise and the fat pared out of the heart. Rub the halves in olive oil for grilling, season and grill first on the cut side for a couple of minutes, turn them, and, as soon as tiny pearls of blood appear at the surface, remove them.
A simple, classic recipe for sautéed veal kidneys is given in
Copyright © 1974 by Richard Olney. Published by Houghton Mifflin Harcourt Publishing Company. All rights reserved.