Any restaurant kitchen always has a surfeit of egg whites. Over the years Frith Street has tried to combat this waste by serving two puddings: pavlova and this nursery treat of crushed meringues, whipped cream and raspberries. Latterly I have rather come down against pavlova and opted for Eton mess instead. This is not a result of some mid-life crisis in my cooking, driving me towards my native cuisine, but because it is simple and I personally love it.
Make the Chantilly cream. Into the same bowl crumble 6 of the meringues, then add the raspberries, and mix everything, taking care that the whole thing still looks a mess. Transfer to a serving bowl and refrigerate until needed.
Substitute some slightly softened vanilla ice-cream for the Chantilly cream, and serve immediately.
© 1999 Alastair Little. All rights reserved.