The idea for this robust black olive sauce came from the great American writer about wine and food Richard Olney, who documented the cookery of his friend Lulu Peyraud, proprietor of the Domaine Tempier, producers of the most wonderful vin rosé from Bandol. The estate is in Provence, but olive sauces are very much a Languedoc taste. I make the sauce with tapenade and serve it with fish, while Lulu made it from scratch with stoned black olives and served it with poultry.