In June 1996 I was on Shelter Island, at the eastern end of Long Island, USA, helping to cook a wedding feast for one of my best friends. Diana Stoll had decided that she wanted barbecued duck suprême for her husband-to-be, Jeff Kinsel, and their 196 guests, so she hired a charcoal-burning monster of a grill. Here I pass on her recipe for this delicious dish. Be sure to score the fat really well and render as much of it from the suprêmes as possible before