The traditional French Christmas meal takes place on Christmas Eve, and lasts long into the night. It’s more usual to make this dish with goose, but you can use turkey – Dinde aux Marrons – as long as you ensure the meat doesn’t dry out. For me, chestnuts have always evoked the spirit of the season, and in France they are often used as a main vegetable rather than simply a garnish. They have a sweetness that works very well with roasted meat, and, fortunately, using the tinned ones is just as good as buying them fresh. As for the turkey, to get one with its giblets you need to go to a good butcher who buys from small producers. Whether you can get a turkey with its giblets will tell you a great deal about the quality of your butcher.