Chèvre aux Figues

For a brief, magical time in midsummer, fresh figs are available in abundance all over France. These have little in common with the limp, anaemic varieties we get in most supermarkets here, but when you can find luscious, firm, ripe black figs it’s worth making the most of them. This dish contrasts the musky pink flesh of the summer figs with rich, cured ham and the freshest and most virginal of goads cheeses.