From her summer spot on Cape Cod, where she must feed more people in a summer than I do in ten years, Barbara Spiegel writes: “Tuna and kiwi are an unlikely couple, but the marriage is a happy one. A covered charcoal grill is ideal for this recipe. Cook the kebabs on a well-oiled grill over coals that have a good coating of white ash—the stage reached about 45 minutes after fire is started.” Do not be surprised that the kiwi fades to a washed-out vegetably color.