Why tamper with a classic? When Josefina Howard shared this recipe with me in 1985, it was a popular menu item at her restaurant Rosa Mexicano in New York City. When I spoke with her about it again in 2000, it was even more so. At the restaurant, waiters prepare the guacamole tableside in beautiful Mexican mortars of black volanic stone (molcajetes). The twostep operation is essential—as is a fully ripe oil-rich type of avocado.