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4
Published 2001
Intense and unadorned, this is a love-it-or-leave-it dish—for a love-it-or-leave-it vegetable. A dense, very sweet squash variety is essential to offset the gourd’s bitterness—and, in fact, the two vegetables are best popped in the mouth at the same time for flavor balance. Choose small bitter gourds, whether Chinese or Indian type.
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