Butter-Roasted Cauliflower Mushroom with Chives and Nuts

There is just one cooking technique that maintains a cauliflower mushroom’s frilly form: high-temperature roasting. Fortunately, the same method also brings out its curious sweet-wild aroma—fruity, nutty, eggy, and altogether sui generis. If you enjoy butter, it is worth investing in the Danish and French products, which have more character than most American ones I’ve tasted.