Tawny Hedgehog-Hazelnut Ragoût

Hazelnuts bring out the chanterelle side of these little golden fungi. Because the mushrooms are expensive—unless you pick your own—it makes sense to give them a starring role. Set them on a backdrop of soft polenta, just the right foil for the thick, nutty, sauce-stew. Golden chanterelles can be added or substituted.

If you don’t have roasted hazelnuts on hand, see directions to roast, husk, and chop the nuts.