Hedgehog Mushroom

Tiny spine-like soft teeth cram the caps of this species, taking the place of gills and giving the mushroom its odd dental labels, both vernacular and scientific. Unlike some other members of the tooth fungus (Hydnaceae) family, which may have spines soft and long enough to be called beards, waterfalls, or fur, these tiny stalactites are barely visible.

Its spines excepted, hedgehog is not a distinctive mushroom. Although chanterellesque in appearance and culinary possibilities, it is less fragrant and flavorful—but certainly appealing. Buff- to tawny-capped, with pale stems, hedgehogs are firm and fully packed. They are collected from the wild in North America, Europe, and China, not farmed. The cooked mushrooms taste like chanterelles blended with cultivated button and oyster mushrooms—and have none of the sweetness which the common name suggests and which some people expect to find. In fact, sweet tooth tends toward bitterness, which usually dissipates with simmering and a touch of added sweetness or richness in the form of nuts, cream, ham, butter, or alcohol.