Broiled Matsutake

Matsutake in its opened-out stage (less pricey than other phases) makes an impressive, if still fairly extravagant, appetizer. Allow one quarter-pounder per person—or more for healthy appetites and healthier budgets. Do not be tempted to cook the caps on high heat, or they will char on the outside before being cooked within. Serve this simple dish with an elegant sake—to admirers of quiet flavors.