Green Chileatole

This vegetable soup from María del Carmen Virués de Izaguirre, one of the best cooks in Xico, is thickened with a medley of pureed greens and aromatics with sesame seeds. Doña Carmen uses all kinds of greens or vegetables, depending on what’s in the market. I suggest that you do likewise. I’ve sometimes used tarragon for the hoja santa and replaced the chayotes or zucchini with other vegetables. Try corn kernels, green beans, peas — any firm-textured vegetable that looks inviting. Yo