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Chinese Heritage Cooking

By Christopher Tan and Amy Van

Published 2018

  • About

Wok hei (literally wok breath), a ‘scorched’ quality of aroma with notes of caramelisation, is a trademark of expert stir-frying, and can only be achieved with high heat and a well-seasoned wok. Before the eras of cooker exhaust hoods and small apartments, an outdoor back kitchen with a wok station used to be a standard feature in houses, testament to the fire and fumes involved in wok cooking.

Cast iron and carbon steel woks are preferred for stir-frying. Cast iron retains heat better but is less responsive to changes in heat level; carbon steel heats up and cools down fast. A new wok of either of these materials must be seasoned before use, to render it naturally non-stick. Scrub off all oil residue from manufacturing, then dry the wok over low heat. Rub a thin layer of cooking oil all over the inside of the wok, then set it over high heat for several minutes, until all the oil carbonises, turns to smoke and dissipates. Let the wok cool completely, wipe it out with a paper towel, and then repeat the oiling-and-heating process once or twice. It will be left with the beginnings of a shiny, dark patina that will be reinforced with each subsequent frying session. Always preheat the wok on the stove before adding any oil to it. Use your seasoned wok only for stir-frying and deep-frying, and not for steaming or braising, as boiling liquids in it will spoil the patina.

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