One of the most common shellfish in the world, the mussel is used abundantly in Italian cuisine, especially in southern Italy and the Venetian lagoon where what they call locally peoci are prodigious.
In the clear waters near Chioggia in the Venetian lagoon there is farm after farm where mussels grow on long ropes hanging from wooden frames. The farms are carefully regulated to ensure high standards of hygiene because of the susceptibility of the mussel to pollution.
When bought, mussels must be firmly closed and heavy indicating that they are still alive and so completely fresh. Before cooking, they should be well washed under cold running water, using a knife to scrape off barnacles and the beards. Mussels which come to the surface when submerged in water should be discarded, as should those that do not open after cooking.