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Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

  • About

geophagy means eating earth, especially certain kinds of clay. It is a widespread practice, often but not always connected with the special dietary needs of pregnant women. This in particular is called ‘pica’ (from the Latin for magpie), defined as ‘a perverted craving for substances unfit for food’.

In recent times geophagy has most often been referred to in the context of the black population in the southern states of the USA. Attention has been drawn to imports of special clay from Africa for the benefit of black women descended from the slaves who originally came from Africa. However, Laufer (1930) recorded examples from many parts of the world and drew instructive parallels between continents. The following quotation serves both to illustrate his main point, that geophagy has been widespread, and to exhibit the pleasant style in which he wrote.

The clay consumed by the women of Bengal is a fine, light ochreous-colored specimen fashioned into thin cups with a perforation in the center … and which emits a curious smoky odor. It is this particular odor which makes it such a favourite with delicate women. … Formerly these cups were hawked about in the streets of Calcutta. … Such a street vendor of baked clay cups once figured in a Bengali play; … she recommended her ware in a song, pointing out that her cups are well baked, crisp to eat and yet cheap, and that delicate ladies about to become mothers should buy them without delay, as eating them would bless them with sons.

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