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Published 2014
The Indian version is merely the best known of an entire family of stuffed pastries or dumplings popular from Egypt and Zanzibar to C. Asia and W. China. Arab cookery books of the 10th and 13th centuries refer to these pastries as sanbusak (the pronunciation still current in Egypt, Syria, and Lebanon), sanbusaq, or sanbusaj, all reflecting the early medieval form of this Persian word: sanbosag. Claudia Roden (1968) quotes a poem by
In the Middle East the traditional shape of sanbusak is a half-moon, usually with edges crimped or marked with the fingernails; but triangular shapes are also used. In India triangular and cone-shaped samosas are popular. In Afghanistan, where the name is sambosa, and in the Turkish-speaking nations, where it is called samsa (and variants), it is made both in half-moon shapes and triangles.
Sedentary Turkish peoples such as the Uzbeks and the people of Turkey itself usually bake their samsas, but nomads such as the Kazakhs fry them. Occasionally samsas will be steamed, particularly in Turkmenistan.
These pastries were still made in Iran as late as the 16th century, but they have disappeared from most of the country today, surviving only in certain provinces; e.g. the triangular walnut-filled sambüsas made in Larestan. However, the Iranians of C. Asia, the Tajiks, still make a wide range of sanbusas, including round, rectangular, and small almond-shaped ones.
In India, savoury samosas are usually served with a chutney of some sort. Sweet samosas are also popular, as in the Middle East. The usual Arab sanbusak is filled with meat, onions, and perhaps nuts or raisins, but sanbusak bil loz is stuffed with a mixture of ground almonds, sugar, and rose or orange blossom water. In Iraq and Arabia dates are a common filling; while in Afghanistan halva or raisins are often used.
In C. Asia, the versions made with rough puff pastry (waraqi såmsa, sambusai varaqi) are filled with meat. Those made with plain dough (leavened or unleavened) may be filled either with meat or other fillings such as diced pumpkin, chickpeas, herbs, wild greens, fried onions, mushrooms, or dried tomatoes.
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© the Estate of Alan Davidson 1999, 2006, 2014 © in the Editor’s contribution to the second and third editions, Oxford University Press 2006, 2014.
