Brains

Calves’ brains are the best; you need one set per person. Lambs’ brains are much smaller, so buy three sets for two people. Soak the brains in tepid water for half an hour or more. Remove the skin and membranes and all the red threads. Blanch in simmering salted water, acidulated with lemon juice, for fifteen minutes or more. If they still seem too slippery and fragile to handle you can firm them up by chilling in the refrigerator for an hour or so, or even freezing in the ice-compartment before slicing or cooking them in batter etc.