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Pulp: A Practical Guide to Cooking with Fruit

By Abra Berens

Published 2023

  • About

Membrillo, Spanish for quince jelly, is probably the most well-known quince preserve. Unlike other jams, membrillo is cooked down to a thick paste and then set in a mold and sliced like Jell-O you can eat with your fingers. Classically, it is served alongside sheep milk cheese like Manchego and salty, dry-cured olives. I like it to top Chicken Liver Mousse for an appetizer or lunch.

I use a 70:30 ratio of uncooked fruit to sugar, usually 4 lb [1.8 kg] of quince and 1¾ cups [350 g] of sugar. Peel, core, and chop the quince into chunks, then transfer to a pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, lower the heat to a simmer, and cook until the quince is soft, about 25 minutes. Drain and then mash. Add the sugar and return to the heat. Cook over low heat, stirring regularly, until most of the moisture has evaporated and the mixture looks dry and deep red. Remove from the heat, taste, and add a splash of lemon or vinegar if it tastes too sweet. Cool in an oiled mold (a bread loaf or bowl) and then chill. When fully cool, turn out of the mold and slice to serve. Store covered in the fridge for up to a year.

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