Fats

No discussion about taste is complete without fats. They are often the first flavor that goes into a dish. When cooking with butter, I use unsalted so I can control the amount of salt in the dish. I use Ghee for its nutty aroma and taste and the Ethiopian spiced butter, nit’r qibe for its bold flavor profile, which comes from the mixture of spices infused into the fat. The fats from bacon, pancetta, and sausage, when rendered, make flavorful cooking fats. I keep them on hand and often use them to roast vegetables (see the chouriço Potato Salad). Duck fat is another good cooking fat that’s packed with flavor. When I cook with oil, I usually use walnut or olive oil. I especially like oil made from Arbequina olives, which tastes grassy; from Arbosana, which is floral; and from Koroneiki, which has a pungent flavor. I prefer neutral-tasting oils such as sunflower, canola, and grapeseed when deep-frying or grilling, because they also have higher smoke points.