Good food is good food and in our ambulance-chasing need for what’s new and what’s next, we often lose sight of that.
But the food of bistronomy, with its beguiling proposition of minimal intervention, multiple styles and cleverly handled ingredients, makes its supposedly casual dining a serious proposition.
Bistronomy is a culinary mutt. There is no genre or formula to the food. It is an intriguing culmination of bits, bobs and chef’s whims filtered through a range of dishes that are casual but precise, embrace boisterous flavours, while keeping them clean and sharp. The background is often French but the muse is sensible modernism where newness is not necessarily the important thing. Dishes traverse between rib-sticking simplicity and obscurity on the plate and back again. The food isn’t easy or expected. At times there is an almost incongruous dichotomy of subtle and slap-in-the-face flavour profiles in dishes that regularly incorporate frugality and creativity; or of high and low where street-food-inspired lobster rolls might sit alongside dishes involving consommés, mousses and the sort of soufflés that would make Escoffier cry.