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At my table, sides are as important as main courses, so I give them qual attention, which often means adding cheese. Slices of fresh mozzarella or slabs of Saint Marcellin contribute a welcome complexity to roasted or grilled vegetables, and broccoli, asparagus, or potatoes, fresh from my garden, are always special when baked with a cheese sauce. And no one, especially me, can resist a lofty cheese soufflé or a batch of cheese-laced corn fritters.

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