Brawn

Brawns were always made from pig’s head, though occasionally other parts of the pig were added. Originally, of course, it was made when a pig or pigs were killed, in cottages, or farms or on great estates, but in the Middle Ages and later it became very much esteemed as a dish for feasts, as it could be set in vast, castellated moulds, turned out and elaborately decorated with piped cream, gilding, etc. The term used was a ‘shield of brawn’. The Victorians liked to see it on the cold table less elaborately dressed up, and also, in robust hunting country, on the sideboard for breakfast.