III. Porridge Soups

Appears in
Delights from the Garden of Eden

By Nawal Nasrallah

Published 2019

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Opposite: Cooking pottage

Porridge soups were known to the ancient dwellers of Mesopotamia ever since grains and pulses were successfully grown in the region. From ancient cuneiform lexical texts, we know that the Sumerians already knew about 100 kinds of thick and nourishing soups, similar to the ones documented in the Abbasid Baghdadi cookbooks, and the ones we still make today.

Medieval Arab cookbooks abound with recipes for porridge soups, collectively called harayis ‘mashed dishes’ and tannouriyyat, which were simmered overnight in the tannour (for instance, al-Baghdadi, in Arberry). Such dishes were made with a variety of grains and pulses, individually and mixed, along with fatty meat. Besides varieties of harayis of wheat and rice (hintiyyat, aruzziyyat, respectively), they cooked adasiyyat (with lentils), loubyayat (with beans), makhloutat, a medley of rice and beans, or white and red beans and lentils (al-Warraq). Tafsheel is another medley with many grains and pulses. A recipe al-Warraq gives, for instance, contains lentils, beans, chickpeas, mung beans, and chard.