Soups

A SOUP IS ALMOST THE SAME THING as a stew, except that it has a higher proportion of liquid to solid. That means you can convert duck soups to duck stews, and vice versa, just by increasing or decreasing the amount of liquid.

To make most duck soups, start by making a broth with the back, wings, and legs. After about 3 hours, when the meat on the legs falls easily off the bone and the backs come apart when you poke at them with a fork, strain the broth. Gently remove the legs from the strainer and reserve. Throw out the cooked backs and wings. Pull the skin off the legs and discard it, then take the meat off the legs and add it to the strained broth. I either save the duck breasts for a different dish—remember, they freeze well—or I sauté them at the last minute and top the soup with the rare slices.