It may be in the realm of vegetables that we can most easily gain some French culinary wisdom. In many ways it is a comfort to find that some of the best vegetable cuisine in France is in private homes. Too often even highly rated restaurants find getting the vegetables just delectably right a difficult assignment. Rarely content to leave well alone, here a crisp blade is subjected to the will of the chef or there a sensationally lovely leaf is curled or shredded beyond recognition, ruining its looks and its taste. And in lesser establishments far too few vegetables reach your table unblessed by the can-opener.