Oysters

Oysters are unquestionably best eaten raw—just moments after they are opened. Freshness is everything with oysters, and the best are delicious on their own or with just a squeeze of lemon. I do, however, love garnishes that accentuate the buttery brininess of the shellfish without overwhelming them, such as horseradish or some quickly pickled Fresno chile and fennel, and ¼ tsp of these does the trick.

Oysters should always be very tightly closed, and feel relatively heavy and dense for their size. Holding the oyster securely in one hand, using a doubled-up kitchen towel, insert the tip of an oyster knife into the hinge of the shell with your other hand. Twist the blade to pop open the shell, holding the oyster level so the “liquor” doesn’t spill out. Run the blade around the lid of the shell to sever the abductor muscle. Lift away the top shell. Run the tip of the blade under the oyster meat to release it from the bottom shell. Once opened, I generally like to see that the meat fills the shell nicely, with an abundant amount of that beautiful oyster liquor, which I beg you not to pour off.