Winter Dinner, with Summer Possibilities, for 6

This is perfect in January, when the rhubarb is new, trim-limbed and Barbie pink: how you cook it, eat it, is up to you. I have tried to limit my suggestions, but not that hard; I want still to urge you rhubarbwards. This menu works too in summer, when the rhubarb may be nearer khaki-coloured and have slightly more spreading thighs, but will still have that peculiar mixture between delicacy and resonance. In summer I’d cook the pork maybe slightly in advance, and leave it to cool for an hour before slicing it thickly and arranging it on a large, oval plate.