November

If November has a barren ring, a walk around many good provincial markets at this time of year reveals an unexpected profusion of fine produce: wet walnuts, red pomegranates, fat partridges, glassy savoys, creamy sweetbreads, glistening scallops, fragrant quinces. This is a month for slow cooking and mellow flavours, for game, nuts and root vegetables, and for comfort food after the shock of having an hour’s light knocked off the end of the day. Hallowe’en ushers in the baked potato and sausage season.