Lobsters and Related Creatures

Appears in

Published 1981

About

The lobster is the largest of the Mediterranean crustaceans, but the langouste or crawfish may be nearly as large. The langoustine is much smaller. Broadly speaking, the same methods of preparation may be applied to all. But the langouste and langoustine, so many people hold, have the more delicate flavour (which should not be masked).

Lobster are to be bought either alive or ready cooked. They may be presented simply or after complicated and costly processes. Elizabeth David has given the following advice: ‘When all is said and done, plain freshly boiled lobster or crawfish served either hot or cold is infinitely superior to all the fancy and showy dishes such as Newburg, à l’américaine and the rest. In towns, lobsters are seldom sold alive, nor would one wish to have to carry one home, struggling and clacking their claws in the most alarming way. Having done this job in seaside villages in Cornwall and in the west of Scotland, in Greece and in Provence, having manoeuvred them into cauldrons of cold water, brought them gradually to the boil in the way recommended by the RSPCA* and eaten them in the freshest possible condition I think I would still rather buy them from a reliable fishmonger, who will choose good ones, split them, crack the claws and send them more or less ready to serve.’