Vegetable cookery

In a commercial kitchen, the vegetable chef’s position is usually the most junior and least well paid in the scheme of things and this reflects the low esteem in which vegetable cookery is held. Vegetables served as side dishes ought to contribute some quality of taste or texture, not just occupy space on the plate. This holds true whether they are served alongside everything else or exiled to serving bowls in the middle of the table.

Try not to choose side vegetables purely to suit a colour scheme. Half the carrots served may well have been chosen only to form part of an attractive duo alongside peas, sprouts or broccoli. Carrots are sweet, sprouts have a pronounced cabbage smell; both can be a delight and work wonderfully with late season lamb or partridge, but not with everything.