Fish and shellfish

Chefs love cooking fish, especially white fish like sole or turbot. It responds well to the cook’s art in ways that meat does not and can be treated with endless permutations of wine and herbs, with butter, cream or olive oil. It’s a shame, then, that it isn’t especially popular, except as a first course bridesmaid to the main course meat. Few people think of having a sea bass or cod as the centrepiece to a grand meal.

When buying seafood, the best approach is to choose a particular type – white fish, shellfish or whatever – and shop flexibly within that category. Strict adherence to recipes that call for uncommon varieties can be frustrating if the main ingredient is scarce. Treatments of an oily fish like mackerel, for instance, will probably suit herring if that is fresher or cheaper on the day. Ditto cod and haddock or turbot and brill.