When I arrived in Hanoi I was struck by the madness of the place. The air was sticky, people actually wore conical hats, smoky food stalls lined the streets and an army of predatory motorbikes circled the roads like angry bulls at Pamplona.
Once I had plucked up the courage to cross a road (which was only after watching an old lady fearlessly stride to the other side), I was able to sample the many culinary delights of the city. Perfectly barbecued meats, grilled fish, peppered stir-fries and fragrant soups โ it had it all, with fishy, hot, salty and sour flavours beautifully balanced in every bite.