Curries are at the heart of Thailand’s extraordinary cuisine. Thai curry pastes, the key to these unique, satisfying dishes, begin with a foundation of shallots, garlic, and cilantro root, ground down to a fragrant mush. Fresh lemongrass, pungent ivory slices of galanga, and a flourish of wild lime peel bring a dazzling herbal element to the mixture. Spice notes come from cumin and coriander seeds, roasted to deepen their flavor. Little explosions of heat come from wildly hot fresh green chilies or fiercely hot dried red ones, and from peppercorns, native to Southeast Asia and the original source of fiery Thai flavors. All this excitement could take one right over the edge, but not in the deft hands of Thai cooks.