Flat Omelets

Flat omelets are begun in the same way as rolled omelets, the mixture being poured into a hot pan and, if its consistency permits, being stirred briefly and its edges lifted with the pan tilted. In many flat omelets, a proportionately small amount of egg serves as a binder rather than as the principal element—such is the case with the zucchini and spinach mixtures in the following recipe; these not only may not be stirred, but they are also too stiff to spread evenly in the pan without the aid of a fork and, though begun over a high flame, they must be cooked longer over a lower flame before being tossed. They are best only just done—tossed as soon as they are firm enough not to fall apart in the tossing—and, once turned, they should remain over the heat but a few seconds longer. Too fragile at the half-cooked stage to be turned with a spatula, these omelets must be tossed—unless, in frustration, you prefer to finish each in the oven (starting it over a high flame to ensure its not sticking, then putting the pan into a hot oven for a half-minute or so—until the surface is only just firm).