Since shellfish is often eaten raw, it is particularly important that it be super-fresh. Like fish, it will have a fresh, briny odor, never one that is “bad-smelling” or ammoniated. Mollusks bought in the shell (mussels, scallops, clams, and oysters) should always be alive and the shells should be tightly closed (except for scallops, which naturally hold their shells open), or should close quickly in response to gentle pressure. Avoid broken or cracked shells. Unless you are buying them already cooked, crabs, lobsters, and crayfish should be alive when purchased.