Beans

Beans and their leguminous kin, like others of the world’s staple foods, are social climbers, their presence on elegant menus and in important kitchens belying their simple origins. Now we are enjoying a renaissance of flavorful heirloom varieties, and cooking them in new and interesting ways. Beans are available, affordable, and high in valuable proteins. In short, the possibilities are limited only if you underestimate the humble bean.

Buy dried beans from a packer whose name you know and trust, or seek out a store that offers its beans loose in bulk. Rinse them in a strainer under cold running water and sort through the beans to remove any pebbles or other foreign matter you may find. Depending on the recipe, the beans may need to be soaked overnight. After they are rinsed, transfer them to a bowl and add enough cold water to cover the beans by at least 3 inches; most dried beans will absorb this much water overnight.