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My first surprising umami experience, one that really knocked me for six, occurred while eating a cold, cooked sea snail as part of a plateau de fruits de la mer at a fish restaurant in Montpellier, France in the 1980s. How can I describe the experience? As I ate it, I got a massive hit—an extremely pleasant fullness of taste that filled my mouth and also seemed to hit every part of my tongue, gums and roof of my mouth. It was a sensation that was surprising, unexpected but totally delicious.
