Delicately sweet and buttery as is, slices of this loaf acquire an ethereal flavour when lightly toasted. It’s a perfect backdrop for any jam or conserve. A day old or lightly toasted, it’s an excellent sandwich bread for such delicate fillings as a tarragon-flavoured chicken salad or smoked salmon with chive-flavoured cream cheese. With cocktails or dinner it also makes a nice raft for a thick slice of a terrine of foie gras. The great American gastronome