To my mind, it would be inconceivable to print a Southern cookbook without a recipe for chicken à la king. When I was a child, it was standard party fare, and in my earliest youth, conceivably the most delectable of all main courses. It was served in my home for special occasions, when my mother entertained, for Sunday dinners, for birthday parties, and so on. The French version of this dish is called poulet à la reine, and it underwent a sort of sea change between here and France. I do not know why it seems so typically Southern.
© 1987 Craig Claiborne estate. All rights reserved.