This is, to my taste, one of the greatest Tex-Mex dishes. I first sampled it at a backyard outing several years ago on a visit to San Antonio. The name of the dish is pronounced fah-HEAT-ahs. It consists of well-trimmed skirt steak, grilled quickly, and placed in the center of flour tortillas. You top the meat with a well-seasoned guacamole, a layer of Mexican table sauce, and the fiery hot garnish known as pico de gallo, or “rooster’s beak.” The latter is made with chopped jalapeño peppers and fresh coriander, and it does enliven the palate. You fold over the sides and bottom of the tortillas to enclose the filling. To balance this fiery dish, you serve a small portion of pinto beans cooked with tomatoes and fresh coriander on the side. Altogether it is a glorious combination of flavors to be eaten indoors or in the open air.
© 1987 Craig Claiborne estate. All rights reserved.