Chess Pie

The origin of the name “chess pie” was explained to me on a visit to Kentucky as follows: A visitor to the South went to a dining establishment. At the time for dessert, the waitress told him that pie was included. He said he would like apple pie and she replied that it was not served. “Then I’ll take peach,” he said. No peach either. “What kind of pie do you serve?” he asked. “Jes’ pie,” she told him.

When in the course of reporting recipes for publication in The New York Times<