This is the same dish as the previous except that it’s easier to prepare, though it is less impressive on the plate. Also, it “eats” differently, as chefs say—that is, the experience of eating it differs. One thing that is not different is that it is equally delicious … provided you cook the eggs properly, which means gently! Over low heat. Take your time.
In a large bowl, whisk the eggs thoroughly—they should be completely uniform, with no translucent pools of egg white floating in the yellow. Add the salt now—it will dissolve and season the eggs uniformly.
Melt the butter in a skillet (preferably nonstick) over low heat, then pour in the eggs. The heat should be so low that it takes a few seconds for the egg touching the pan to congeal. Use a silicone spatula to lift these curds off the bottom of the pan and allow other curds to set up. For even more control of the heat, turn your burner to medium or medium-high, but keep lifting the pan off the burner when the eggs begin to cook too quickly. (If you want to make it very easy, or if you’re new to scrambling, cook them in a double boiler, or simply cook them in a saucepan that you allow to float in simmering water. This is the best way to scramble eggs, but it leaves a hard-to-clean pan, so I opt for direct heat).
When nearly half of the egg mixture has turned to gentle curds and the remaining third is still liquid, sprinkle on the cheese (if using). Then, when closer to two-thirds of the mixture has turned to curds and the rest is liquidy but thick, remove the pan from the heat completely. Allow the eggs to continue cooking to the desired texture, then divide between serving plates.
Butter the toast, pour the champagne, and serve.
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