Spaghetti with Bottarga

It was late, and my wife, Lael, and I had just taken a six-hour ferry ride to Sardinia when we arrived at Gallura, Rita D’Enza’s restaurant and inn. We would have been perfectly happy to just go to our room and fall asleep, but Rita, a good friend of my parents, would have nothing of it. “You can’t go to bed on an empty stomach!” She ushered us into the dining room for “just a light supper, ” then set before us two plates of spaghetti with bottarga w