Porcini-Style Shiitake Mushroom Pasta Sauce

Late in spring and early in the fall, puddles-bring mushrooms, and mushrooms in Italy bring their gatherers, both professional and amateur, who scour the woods with bent back and a large potato sack in hand. As I am writing this, at the end of September in Venice, baskets full of fresh wild mushrooms are glorifying the Rialto market, displaying porcini (Boletus edulis), yellow and black finferli (chanterelles), spug-nole (morels), chiodini (“little nails,” a long