Soufflés are generally disappointing desserts. There is an element of theatre when one appears with its head standing high over the dish, and the punters assume that it took great skill to produce – the higher it stands, the cleverer the cook.
This is not so. The more egg you use, the higher and swifter it will rise. Also, the more egg you use, the more it will eat like a stringy omelette and leave you with a metallic, fried egg aftertaste.
The egg should be a vehicle for lightening and aerating the fruit or chocolate, and should be barely perceptible as a taste. Use ingredients like lemon or passionfruit with sharp distinct flavours. The flavour of whatever you use will be delicate after increasing the volume tenfold by whisked egg whites, so steer clear of anything bland. The distinctive flavour of blackberries tastes just fine.
© 1990 Shaun Hill. All rights reserved.