Fresh pasta topped with a generous helping of satiny shiitake and crisp celery is accented with lemon zest and juice for a surprising and subtle effect. For variation, fresh sage adds a different dimension. Wrap shiitake stems and freeze for broth.
¾pound medium shiitake
2teaspoonsAsian (dark) sesame oil
2cups thin-sliced tender inner celery stalks with leaves
1tablespoon minced garlic
½cupfull-flavored mushroom, veal, or beef broth
Salt and pepper
½cup minced parsley leaves
¾pound fresh (not dried) fettuccine or linguine
Trim stems from shiitake and reserve for another use. Clean caps with damp towel. Halve, then toss with 1tablespoon olive oil to coat evenly. Let stand at least 15 minutes. Meanwhile, scrub lemon well, then grate zest. Halve lemon and squeeze 2tablespoons juice.
Heat 1tablespoon olive oil and 1teaspoon sesame oil in very large skillet. Add celery and shiitake and toss 1 minute over high heat. Add garlic and toss another minute. Add broth, cover, and cook until caps are tender but celery is still quite crisp—another minute or so. If necessary, uncover and boil a moment longer to evaporate most liquid. Add lemon zest, salt, pepper, and parsley; toss to blend.
Cook fettuccine in boiling salted water until barely tender, just a few minutes. Drain and combine in heated dish with mushroom mixture, lemon juice, and remaining 1tablespoon olive oil and 1teaspoon sesame oil. Season.