Sugar Almonds

Appears in
Oxford Companion to Food

By Alan Davidson

Published 2014

  • About

sugar almonds almonds coated with a layer of fine sugar, as for dragées. The sugar is often coloured, traditionally with pastels such as pink, blue, yellow, and mauve. Sometimes metallic coatings are applied, e.g. in the form of leaf silver. Sugar almonds with marbled exteriors are local specialities in several parts of France; they are called cailloux de gave or ‘river pebbles’.

Sugar almonds play an important part in rites of passage, particularly christenings and weddings, at which they are offered as symbols of good fortune. This custom is strong in France, Greece, Italy, other Mediterranean countries, and as far east as Iran and Afghanistan where they are known as noql. Margaret Shaida (1992) explains that in Iran it is usual to coat slivers of almond with sugar, flavoured with rosewater, and that these are served at all festive occasions. As a New Year offering they are supposed to ensure that the mouths and lives of the recipients will remain sweet for the whole of the coming year.