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By Robert Carrier

Published 1965

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Talleyrand called this soft, creamy French cheese “the King of Cheeses”. Brie comes in thin, yellow-crusted cartwheels - the trade calls it “red” - dusted with a powdery white mould. Delicious when soft and a little runny, apt to be chalky when under-ripe, Brie smells of ammonia when past its prime. It is available in Britain by the slice, in individual, wedge-shaped, wooden boxes, or cut to order from the whole.
Brie used to be produced by individual farmers, and in consequence had a subtle variety of flavours. Today the production is industrialised, and the cheese has, alas, lost much of its subtlety and flavour, with a tendency to be oversalt to keep it from becoming too runny when cut.

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